in ciutat vella, behind santa maria del mar in the el born neighborhood is a little street called carrer de montcada. on it you will find the pictured ceramics store. it may not be the least touristy store around, but it's a great place to pick up reasonable, useful souvenirs. the older man behind the counter is delightful. i was sniffling with a cold the last time that i was there, and he was very concerned that i get healthy and also carefully wrapped each piece of ceramic in a tremendous amount of newspaper after asking if i would be travelling with them. i am always delighted to buy things here. also on the street you will find the picasso museum and xampanyet, a great place to mingle with locals and savvy tourists while munching on some authentic barceclona style tapas and cava. read the reviews here for a pretty good idea of what's going on. there's also rumored to be a shop that will fill up old wine bottles from their barrels for one euro, though i never found it. its a good street to wander down. make sure you also stop into the tea shop near the corner of passeig del born for a nice hot sample or a pretty kettle.
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